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Many experts recommend updating your home’s exterior to improve your chances to sell. Rightfully so! Most of the fixes you can do outdoors that will pay big dividends at closing are low cost and relatively easy to accomplish with a minimum amount of tools.

Several popular TV programs focus on improving the exterior appearance of homes. Often, properties showcased on these programs undergo amazing visual transformations after very small changes. We can use this attitude – more for less – to improve your own home.

First, a tip: remember our motto – more for less. We want to focus on small, inexpensive changes that impact the VISUAL appearance of your home. Fixing that broken sprinkler head in the back corner (things that will not be seen by visiting buyers) or spending big bucks for major improvements like adding mature landscaping will surprisingly yield less than you think.

1. Mow, Trim and Water

Perhaps the cheapest of all fixes – if you have a yard, you more than likely already have the tools. Plan on mowing 2 days before an open house (this gives the grass clippings a chance to dry up and blow away – sweep up whatever is left before your visitors arrive). Trim those hedges and cut away dead or unsightly tree branches. Also, if you tend to save money by not watering, now’s the time to spend a little – just a couple good soaks a week can really make a difference. You can also invest in a bag of fertilizer. You really want your grass to be as green and nice as possible.

2. Keep the Yard Neat

Some buyers can be turned off by clutter in the yard. This can include:
Scattered toys – clean them up and ask your children to help clean and keep things tidy – maybe offer an incentive like a trip for some ice cream
Excess lawn ornaments – as a general rule, no more than 2 in the front and 2 in the back. Seriously. If you have more, time to start packing them up for the move.
Jumbled or neglected lawn furniture – if you’re keeping it, put it in the shed or an off-site storage shed. If this isn’t possible, do your best to clean it and keep it stacked or placed nicely. Of course, if you have a nice deck or patio and your furniture is in good repair, you can highlight the use of this space for entertainment – unfurl the umbrella for your open house.
Visible yard equipment – keep the mower, trimmer, shovel, rake etc. in the shed or in the garage, or if possible, in an off-site storage shed. Coil up that hose and keep it out of site (but at hand for watering).
Trash – give your yard the once-over – look for stray pieces of trash in and under the bushes, near the fences and wherever you feel trash might collect.
Animal waste – if you have a pet, really work hard at removing all pet waste. Buyers want to walk around the yard, and stepping in something is never good – even worse if they track it into your nicely cleaned house. This is a big one and only takes an hour or so of unpleasantness.

3. Freshen the Mulch and Remove Weeds

If you have beds with mulch, get a bag or two of fresh mulch – changing the washed-out grey of old mulch to the light-brown of new is a big visual improvement. Also, do your best to keep your planters weed free. You can save by staying away from weed killers or other chemicals – the last thing you want is brown, dying weeds. Two hands, a small trowel and some sturdy gloves are the way to go.

4. Flowers Sell

An oldie but a goodie – if it’s an appropriate time of the year, plant some nice flowers in the front of the house. Go for rich colors – reds, purples, blues – and low-maintenance types. Impatiens are hardy, pretty and fairly inexpensive – that’s just one suggestion. Hanging baskets or potted flowers on the porch create a warm and inviting entry to your home.

5. Wash that House

You’d be surprised at the amount of dirt a house naturally attracts and how much brighter it looks without it. If you have a hose nozzle, put it on the stream setting and give your house a bath. Even better, spend a few bucks on one of those spray-on, wash-off house cleaners – just make sure you get one suitable for your type of siding (read the product specifications before you buy). For a real revelation, borrow a pressure washer from a friend, just be careful you don’t strip paint – we’re trying to save, not start a month-long painting project. Speaking of which….

6. To Paint or Not to Paint

That is the question. On one hand, paint is fairly inexpensive and can make things really look fresh and new. On the other, some houses have LOTS of areas to paint, and painting one or a few only draws attention to those areas that didn’t get treated. Here’s where you have to use your own judgment. Exterior painting can really get to be a can of worms, especially when you have to deal with scaffolding and such. My rule of thumb is: if you can do it yourself without using expensive equipment (scaffolding) and do it quickly and relatively cheaply, go for it. If not, focus your energy on other areas.

7. Fix any Obvious Repair Issues

Things like broken shutters, missing shingles that are visible from the ground, badly dented or missing siding and all other random and general repairs should be taken care of if possible. Remember our motto: more for less. If something will take too long or cost too much, unless you feel it is a major visual distraction, best to leave it alone. I usually take a few circles around the outside of the house and just write down any negatives I can see. Go stand out at the curb and take a look – note anything out of order. Afterwards, I take the list and prioritize. I put the things that are big visual distractions or cheap/easy fixes at the top and begin there.

8. Wash the Windows

You don’t need to get all the way up to the highest ones, but the ones on the ground floor should be washed. This will allow visitors to see into the house from outside and gives it the appearance of being more inviting as opposed to drawn curtains and closed blinds.

9. Ask the Neighbors to Help Out

Many don’t even think about this, but make sure your neighbors know you’ll be holding an open house – they might even help you with some word-of-mouth advertising. If your neighbors are thinking of having the drive resurfaced, doing heavy yard work, paining the exterior of the house, parking a garbage truck in the driveway, (etc. etc.) the day of your open house, politely ask that they do those things on another day. You don’t want buyers to come away with any negative impressions about your home or neighborhood and neighbors are a big thing to new buyers.

10. Prepare the Home for Showing

Remove all personal items from the exterior of the house – those plaques that read “The Smith Family” should be taken down and packed away, same thing with personalized mailboxes – either replace them (you will have to if you want to take it with you) or remove any personal identification. Take a few minutes and sweep the porch, steps, deck, patio, driveway and sidewalk before visitors arrive – a good once-over is fine. Put your cars in the garage, or better yet, the street. If you have heavy oil or grease spots, try to get your hands on a degreaser – you can find them at your local home improvement stores. A little scrubbing will really improve the look of your driveway or garage. Finally, turn on all exterior lights, even during the day. If you have landscaping lights, turn these on as well. Do any last-minute pick-ups or put-aways, and then head out. It’s always better to NOT be home when visitors come to look at your house – it feels like an imposition for many people. You want them spending as much time as they want in your home.

Congratulations – you have now set yourself up for success! After completing all of these things, you have greatly increased your chances of a sale and also increased your chances of realizing more money at closing. Many home buyers take visual appearance very seriously when choosing a new home. By making sure your house looks as nice as it can be from the outside, you have left a positive and lasting impression on your potential buyers.

Author Resource:-
Eric Rogers is a full-time, award-winning REALTOR with Century 21 Pro-Team in Aurora, Illinois. Eric has been recognized as a local expert for Aurora IL real estate and surrounding Fox Valley communities.

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MATERIALS
Thatching makes use of materials that are naturally available - grass or reed. The stalks of thatching grass are normally hollow and about 3 mm thick. Dekriet stalks, however, are solid and about 3-4 mm thick. The quality of the material improves with cultivation and regular cutting. Some thatchers consider that the quality of material that is cut by hand is superior to that of material cut by mechanical means. Hand cutting will produce about 50 to 100 bundles a day. A mechanical cutter and binder will process about 6000 bundles a day.

PREPARATION
After cutting and loosely bundling, each bundle is shaken briskly to dis¬lodge all loose material. The bundles are then cleaned by passing a sickle through them. This removes the remaining leaf growth from the lower two thirds of the stalks.

The grass is then remade into bundles. These bundles are each tied with a thong of twisted grass or with twine and packed in heaps about 2m high and 3 m in diameter at the base. When the thatch is to be used for the area immediately above the thatching battens, where the underside will often be exposed within a room, the material should be combed to ensure that the stalks are perfectly clean. A comb is made by driving a number of round wire nails into a approximately 300 mm length of horizontal pole.

THATCHERS TOOLS
The thatcher in general thatch construction normally uses five tools: Sickle - This is used for hand cutting as well as for cleaning the cut bundles. The thatching spade - This is usually a home-made implement consisting of a board with a handle on one flat side, rather like a plasterers float. Several metal blades are secured to the other flat side. This tool is used to dress and shape the thatch in position. A straight needle - When it is possible to have an assistant working on the underside of the thatch, a straight needle, about 300 mm long, is used to 'stitch' the thatch to the roof battens.

A curved needle – It is used to 'stitch' the thatch to the roof battens when it is not possible to have an assistant working under the roof surface. A climbing hook - S-shaped climbing hooks are used to give the thatcher a foot rest when working on the roof slope.

WORKMANSHIP
A typical small thatching team consists of four men; one to pass material from ground to roof level, two thatchers working on the external roof surface and one working under the roof to assist those working on the outside. Such a team can be expected to lay about 10 m2 of thatch in a day. Before each bundle is passed to the thatcher on the roof it is butted against a butting board, or on level ground, to ensure that the butt end is even and that any sharp ends are blunted. The bundles are normally thrown up to the thatcher. The grass is used in bundles as cut and laid on the roof with the butt end lowest. As each bundle is laid on the roof the thatcher cuts through the twisted grass or twine that secures it. He lays the first bundle on the corner, at an angle of at least 45°, thus exposing the butt end at the eaves and at the verge. Each bundle in the first course at eaves level is secured to the second batten with tarred sisal cord ¬thatching twine at 75 mm intervals.

In this process of stitching the straight needle is used, where one man can work under the roof. If it is not possible to work under the roof the curved needle is used. Subsequent courses are secured, either with a poplar stick or with a length of 4 mm diameter gal¬vanized steel wire. The thatch is laid, two bundles thick, to a total minimum thickness of 150mm. Each successive layer conceals the poplar stick or wire that secures the previous layer. As thatching proceeds a layer of selected stems is spread evenly on the roof battens to a thickness of about 12mm. This gives a neat appearance inside the roof. On top of this layer a laminated foil of aluminum and building paper reinforced with fiberglass is laid as a protection against fire. Thatching then proceeds, course by course, to the ridge level until complete.

RAINWATER DISPOSAL
Thatched roofs are generally con¬structed with dripping eaves; rain water gutters and downpipes are not normally provided. Eaves overhangs should be at least 600mm and some provision should be made at ground level, around the building, to prevent erosion due to water dripping from the eaves. This can either be in the form of a concrete apron or paved surround.

DURABILITY
A thatched roof will normally last for about 25-30 years if properly laid. Aesthetic advantage of using a thatched ridge has been mentioned previously. A disadvantage of using such a ridge is that it will require renewal every 4-6 years. As maintenance of a thatched roof invariably results in dust and pieces of straw being dislodged from the roof, the provision of a reinforced cement ridge, suitably waterproofed and coloured, may be preferred.

Written by Jere Botes, architect & founder of http://www.dreamhouses.co.za/, a website dedicated to provide home builders, home renovators, home owners & developers with free professional advice on all aspects of home design, building & diy.

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Are you looking for a unique and distinct kitchen? The easiest place to start is with your kitchen cabinets. You can find unfinished kitchen cabinets in many venues, and they give you the freedom to exercise your individuality. The best type of wood for kitchen cabinets is oak. You will be able to find many styles of unfinished oak kitchen cabinet. You don’t have to be particular handy type of person to finish furniture. Just follow a few simple steps and you will on your way to starting work on your unfinished oak kitchen cabinet.

The first step is to find a reputable dealer of fine unfinished furniture. You can research on the internet, visit your local home supply store, or get recommendations from family and friends. You then need to take measurements of the kitchen, and decide where you want the cabinets to go. When you are shopping for your unfinished oak kitchen cabinet, keep in mind there are two types of cabinets. One is framed, and this means that the cabinets have front edges that will box in and taper the openings. An unframed cabinet is better for larger item storage. You want the shelves and the drawers to be at least ¾ inch thick for maximum strength and stability.

Oak is a light wood, and this enables you to have control over the darkness of the stain. Another plus to using an unfinished oak kitchen cabinet is that they can be stained in such a way that they look similar to the more expensive mahogany or cherry wood. Before you make your final decision try a variety of stain samples on the types of wood you are considering buying. Find the perfect stain to accent your kitchen. Take pictures or sketches of what you are looking for when you go shopping. You will also need to consider the hardware that comes with the unfinished cabinet.

Are you satisfied with it, or do want a different type of hardware for different functions. Take pictures of the cabinets you are considering. This way you can take them home and imagine how they will look. This will help you if you decide to buy online as well. Show your unique style by finishing your own cabinet doors. You will so proud every time you step into your kitchen.

Want to learn more about Unfinished Kitchen Cabinets?, feel free to visit us at: http://www.aboutkitchencabinets.com/Articles/Unfinished_Kitchen_Cabinet.php

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The most important (and often neglected or misunderstood) aspect of purchasing and installing an electric tankless water heater is selecting the proper model for a specific household demand.

So, how do one sizes a tankless water heater for optimal on-demand hot water delivery?

The process of sizing a tankless water heater involves six steps:

1.Temperature Rise

The entire operation of a tankless water heater is based on how hot you want your water to be when you use it. This is called the “temperature rise” and is a simple subtraction of the incoming water temperature from the water temperature that your tankless water heater would be set to deliver. . A comfortable shower temperature should not be much higher than 105°F (temperatures above 125°F are scalding). Lower temperatures will also prevent scale deposits from forming, which may affect the operation of the heater in the long run.

2. Flow Rate

After determining the temperature rise, you need to calculate how much water (in Gallons per Minute or GPM) your tankless water heater could deliver (if needed) at this temperature. This is called Peak Demand and is a simple addition of the flow rates of all the sources in your house that could be running simultaneously.

For your convenience, here is a table of average flow rates per source:
Fixture Type:0.5
Lavatory: 2.0-4.0
Shower:1.5-3.0

Kitchen Sink:1.0-1.5

Pastry Sink:1.5-2.5

Laundry Sink:2.5-3.0

Dish-washer1.0-3.0

3.Voltage

Many retailers sell units that will accommodate 110V, 120V, 208V, 220V, 240V, and 277V


4.Amperage/ Power

Different electric tankless water heaters will have various requirements in amp draw and power output. You will want to ensure that you can support the electrical demands of your Electric Tankless Water Heater. Typically, the power
output of a Tankless Water Heater is calculated using the formula: Kw Rating = (GPM x Temperature Rise) / 6.83. For example, if you want a temperature rise of 45 degrees F and your Peak Demand is 4 GPM then you are looking for a tankless water heater model with power rating of 26 kW (45 x 4 / 6.83).

5.Circuit Breaker
You must ensure that you have a circuit or circuits that will support your Electric Tankless Water Heater. It may be necessary to put your Electric Tankless Water Heater on its own circuit or circuits

6.Potisioning/ Piping.

Prior to installation and sizing, it is important to determine the position of your tankless water heater in respect to the delivery points. The further
the tankless water heater is located, the longer the piping needed. Longer piping means more heat losses in the long run, as well as, more possibilities of fouling after years of use. If you are installing one tankless water heater, chose a central location that could serve all your points of use easier. If you are installing multiple tankless water heaters, position them close to the points of use they will serve.

There are a lot of tankless water heater models to choose from. The general
market tendency is “The bigger, the better”. By following these six simple steps outlined here, you will be able to determine fast and easy which tankless water heater size and model will best serve your needs.


Disclaimer: The information on the system, product or material presented herein is provided for informational purposes only. Please ensure that you consult a qualified technician prior to installing a tankless water heater or any suggestions put forward by e-SmartLiving. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, regarding the accuracy or completeness of this information.



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About the Author: Dimitri Svolos is Chemical Engineer that has spent years working as a process and controls optimizer for various manufacturing sectors. His website e-SmartLiving.com advocates energy efficient and healthy lifestyles.

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Bathroom and toilet officially speaking is a bathroom unit. A space it takes makes only 6-8% of the general flat area, but considering its importance it is out of competition. It is possible to imagine an apartment without any room or even without a kitchen (there is no kitchen as such in “studios”, it is joined with the living room), but it is quite impossible to imagine an apartment without a bathroom unit. Major repairs of a bathroom unit is technically quite a difficult task, it is not a joke. You should leave this work only for highly skilled specialists.

At first, if a quality of mounting and finishing works can be checked by anyone (for example, a wall is curved, a window or a door does not close, or tiles are put roughly), then a quality of plumbing mounting, sewage and electrical systems you can’t check.

And secondly, as a result of bad work your neighbours can be flooded, constantly clogged sewage system, short circuit failure in the electric wiring due to the contact with water and other serious problems.

We have already written a lot about floors, ceilings and walls, therefore I will remind you briefly that all the materials must be water proof, and there must be damp proofing on the floor. It is also very important to observe the geometry of your bathroom; otherwise it will be difficult to put tiles and to place sanitary equipment in a right way.

Electric wiring and electrical equipment.
A bathroom and a toilet impose the special requirements on everything that is related to electricity. An electrical equipment, used in a damp room, must have grounding, wiring must be three-wire (phase, zero, ground). Lamps, wall outlets, switches are used with the degree of protection.

Water supply and sewage system.
Steel, copper, metal-polymeric and polypropylene pipes are used for hot and cold water supply. PVC pipes are used for the sewage system. Water is cut off by ball stop valves. If plumbing specialist uses screw-thread connections, it is important not to brick them up in a wall to have an access to them. The welded connections of steel pipes must be grounded to avoid corrosion. It is necessary to put pre-filters on all water-pipes to avoid damages of expensive sanitary equipment. It is better to set filters with drainage, as it facilitates their service.

While connecting towel dryer “childish” error is the wrong supply of hot water. If sanitary technician says that it is impossible to supply hot water to a towel dryer, trust him and set an electric towel dryer. Sewage-pipes are mounted with a slope of about 5% and if possible avoid corners of 90°. I strongly recommend buying all the pipes and sanitary engineering armature only of the known producers and preferably in the specialized shops. Revisory access holes for the maintenance of plumbing-sewage system must not be too little, otherwise their purpose is lost and in case of some problems it will be necessary to break the walls. All of these are basic moments of plumbing and sewage system mounting, and in general all of this must be the business of your sanitary technicians.

Let’s discuss ventilation.
It is obligatory to mount drawing ventilation. What should be considered when buying a ventilator? First of all it is its power, it must correspond to the size of a room, and second it is its noise (measured in decibels). Both descriptions are specified on a ventilator.

Sanitary engineering equipment. Here we will discuss mixers, water heaters, ceramic bathroom fittings and etc.
For a shower and a bath pay attention to the models with a thermostat. There are two regulators in them. One regulates a temperature, and another regulates water pressure. To my mind, it is exceptionally convenient.
Pay attention to toilets flushing systems, which are wall mounted, and wall toilet sinks for them.

Electric water heaters. They are divided into running and storage. Running water heaters are smaller, but are more powerful, than storage ones. It can reach 16 kW. Having a lot of other electric devices in an apartment can create heavy load on your electric system.

Whether to have a spa or not – I will not advise anything, because a good bath is a very expensive thing and it’s up to you to decide, whether to pay £1000-£3000 for it. I will only tell you, that connection of a spa does not differ from ordinary bath connection. I hope that these information will help you during repair works, when buying materials and dealing with builders.
© Copyright 2006-2007 www.builderstown.co.uk

About the Author: Arthur Prudent is a developer of Builders London: bathroom, kitchen installation - web site offering all aspects of builders services. Builders London: Major repairs of bathroom unit.

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At this blog my focus is bringing together a ton of articles focused on DIY projects, home improvement, gardening and just about everything that has to do with fixing up and improving your home.

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